by Yvonne Maffei | Apr 5, 2020 | Published Writing, TRAVEL, Turkey
I was asked by the Editor of Salaam Gateway to share my story of going through the covid19 pandemic while living abroad in Turkey. I share my experience of how I came to learn of the spread of the virus into Italy and the US, two countries where I have family and struggle to be so far away from them at this difficult time, as well as what it’s been like to experience the onset of the spread in my adopted home. You can read my full story at this link. 
by Yvonne Maffei | Dec 19, 2019 | TRAVEL, Turkey, Winter
It’s citrus season in southern Turkey and the entire region is overflowing with oranges, lemons and tangerines. As I walk to the local market to purchase my own, I can see trees in my neighborhood bursting with these fruits.

They are simply everywhere, in abundance, mashaAllah.

It’s one of the reasons I was drawn to this region, as it reminds me of Sicily, the island where my grandparents came from and the region of the world that I’ve always had such an affinity for, particularly in terms of food preferences.
Coming to Turkey to experience this was a whole new level of culinary delights in that I had never realized how similar the two places would or could be – even in geographic appearance. Sometimes I feel like I’m in Italy; other times I feel like I’m in southern California.

But, I’ve never tasted anything like the citrus here. It’s so unassuming- the people, the markets (pazars), the cuisine. It’s modest, under-stated and under-estimated in every way- in my opinion. It deserves so much more attention. And respect.

The taste is something you have to visit to experience because these fruits truly are as sweet as candy, only the all-natural kind.
Have you ever visited southern Turkey? If yes, what has been your favorite thing about this region?
by Yvonne Maffei | Oct 26, 2019 | TRAVEL, Turkey
A few days ago we had our third wobble here in Fethiye in the last few months. It was a little less intense than the last one, nevertheless discomforting. I didn’t feel the (first one to me) that occurred this year (middle of the day), some time in the early part of summer; the second one I felt for a few very long seconds (early morning); and the one we just had (late at night) I felt for about 2-3 seconds. It felt like I was riding a wave on a surfboard. You can’t really move, you have to just ride it out- and then get out of the building in case there’s a bigger one coming or any aftershocks.
This was something I always expected when living in California where I was always waiting for the ‘big one’ to happen, especially living in the San Francisco Bay area- you almost expect it. You’re prepared for it. But here, each time, they’ve happened they’ve taken me totally off guard. I’ve even started to have dreams about them as though they’re happening all over again. It’s the strangest feeling.
I’ve even experienced earthquakes in Chicago, but they were different. Three in total (a long time in between each of them) and they felt like the earth snapped hard. Things fell from the wall, a front screen door even pushed itself open and slammed shut.
So this time, the next morning called for an outdoor breakfast by the very calm Aegean Sea. Technically, it’s the Bay of Fethiye that goes out to the Aegean, but the fact that it was so calm was a bit of an irony.

Perhaps the earth has to release tension so it’s a good and healthy thing to do? I don’t know…but I could definitely live without them.

Being around others who are enjoying a nice breakfast with Turkish çay and a variety of borek (savory phyllo pies), particularly Ispanak (spinach), just helped put those events behind me.

Ispanak Borek at Simit Sarayi, Fethiye
I chose a nice sort of fast-food breakfast/dessert/coffee and çay place (open all day, though) all over Turkey (and the UK and many countries around the Middle East) called Simit Sarayi. At this particular location on the Fethiye Kordon, you can dine at tables places on the beach pebbles, at sea level. It’s wonderful, especially in the early morning avoiding intense heat and sunshine.
For those who have asked for a recipe, I don’t have the recipe for the cafe’s borek, but I do make my own, which you can try for yourself using my recipe here.
by Yvonne Maffei | Aug 5, 2019 | TRAVEL, Turkey
This is a list of things you may not be able to bring out of Turkey, but you should definitely try while there and most likely you’ll have the chance to do so at most restaurants. Be choosy with your restaurant choices, and go where the locals go. I found that where local workers like taxi drivers or municipality workers eat their lunch were some of the absolute best places I ever ate.
*Note: No doubt you will have Turkish tea (çay) with a lot of the meals you try, so I’m not putting that on the list.
- Elma Çay (Apple Tea) I don’t know why, but at first I wasn’t too interested in trying this tea. I didn’t really think it would be a big deal, but once I tasted it, I was so happy I did. It was simply delightful. Fruity. Aromatic. Calming. Especially when I was there in the winter. Try it at Hafiz Mustafa cafes if you’re in Istanbul, but if you want to take any home, I recommend buying the all-natural dried apple without sugar, as some come in packets or boxes with sugar and I’m just not a fan of that.
- Sujuk (Turkish sausage) from Afyon.
Turkey is known for the best sujuk and it doesn’t disappoint, but you really should get the one from Afyon, where it is said to be the best and doesn’t disappoint. If you’re passing through the town of Afyon, you’ll find signs where you can buy freshly made packs and they’ll even heat a few pieces on the grill so you can taste it cooked. This was the BEST sujuk I’ve ever had and it doesn’t look or taste processed like all the others (there should be some marbling on the meat, which means some fat has been added). If you can’t get to Afyon, wherever you do buy sucuk, look for ones that have been made there. You should find plenty of it in Istanbul. Just be sure to ask if it was made there and it’s not just the name on it. - Kaymak, the clotted cream of Turkey. Since it’s highly unlikely you’ll be able to take it out of the country, you must try it here. Your best chances of getting a taste are at a traditional Turkish breakfast, particularly a country-style one. Often times it’ll come with honey on top or honey on the side and you simply dip some bread into both- it’s divine that way. I could eat the whole serving myself, but then again I’m also in love with all creams…You can get this at a grocery store, too, by the way, if you want to eat it on your own. It will be in the refrigerated dairy section near the milk and yogurt.
- Butter from Trabzon. I have liked all the butter in Turkey, but in particular the one from the Black Sea area is the best, most specifically from Trabzon. The reason is that they’re famous for grazing their cows in the highlands (mostly in the Spring) where they get to chew on wildflowers specific to the region. The butter is a deep golden color, so you’ll know it when you see it. You may even get to taste it at a traditional Turkish breakfast, which seems to be when all the best food bits are served, anyway.
- Fresh and Frothy Ayran (Yogurt Drink). Yogurt is everywhere in Turkey, even in drinks. Ayran is a fermented yogurt drink that can be found in the refrigerated section of the grocery store, but I’m not talking about that version of ayran. You want the thick, whipped up version served fresh and icy cold (in copper cups, if possible). So good with dishes like lahmacun (ground meat pizza) or on its own. Particularly good for an upset stomach on a day when you’ve been eating way too much of everything else.

- Ice Cream You Eat with a Fork at Hafiz Mustafa in Istanbul. I couldn’t visualize the idea of eating ice cream with a fork when I was told about this, but you’ll understand when you see it. Ice cream is nicely frozen and cut in wedges, not scoops, and served on a plate- even in scorching summer heat. I loved the combination of pistachio, vanilla with goat’s milk, and chocolate, but you can get just one or two of them. They’ll be on the menu at Hafiz Mustafa, the only place where I would recommend trying it.
- Turkish Pide (Pizza) In Istanbul, I love Kuzine Pide. They make the dough fresh on the spot (like most pide places), but I loved this one for the presentation style and taste. Check out my Instagram post when I went there. If you can’t get to this place, wherever you are in Turkey, try a local neighborhood place, particularly those that are packed with locals. I’m sure it’ll be great and you must try it. My favorite pides are the ones with just mozzarella-like cheese (kasharli) or cheese and ground meat (kiymali). Sucuk is also a must-try. I guess you need to go a few times!

- Maras Dondurma (Ice Cream) on a Cone. If you’re visiting Turkey in the summer, you’ll be inundated with sweets options, especially for ice cream. Being a gelato aficionado myself, I’m not easily impressed with ice creams so I only recommend the ones that must be tried. I’ll be honest and say that I sorta turned up my nose at the initial gumminess of the Maras ice cream, but after trying several versions and several different vendors, I have learned to appreciate this all-natural ice cream made locally with fresh and seasonal ingredients. Ask for tastings before deciding on your flavor and be ready for some tricky stuff happening when the vendor hands over your cone- it’s fun!

- Balik Ekmek (Fish Sandwich) from the Eminou bridge, Istanbul or anywhere the fish is good. This is a must try, if you like fish. The sandwiches are good, but there are often times more bread than fish, so choose your vendor wisely. If you head to the Eminou bridge area, you’ll see dozens of boats where they sell the sandwiches so you do have a choice of where to go. Had I not felt so rushed the first time (lines are long), I would have done some more surveillance of each vendor to choose one that gave a better helping of fish. The fish, however, was really tasty.
- Gozleme (Savory Pancake). Gozleme is everywhere in Turkey, and most of them are all so very good. If there are at least one or two women rolling out the dough and stuffing the gozleme in the restaurant (even the tiniest of places will have this), you should take a peek inside and give it a go. Gozleme is stuffed with a lot of different things: cheese, ground meat, spinach, onions, sometimes a mixture of all of those. You choose your stuffing and wait for your gozleme to be made to order, which isn’t too long. Also, if you head to open markets in the southern part of the country, you’ll find Gozleme there, too, which is a really fun thing to do on market day before shopping.

So, that’s my list for now, based on my experience both as a traveler and as a resident. I’m sure there will be more to add to this list at some point, but I really try to keep it to things that you just can’t find back in the U.S. either- not just the stuff you can’t take back.
Anything else you would add?
by Yvonne Maffei | Jul 27, 2019 | TRAVEL, Turkey
I came to Turkiye twice before making the leap to live here for an extended period of time. I’ve been mostly in Istanbul, the Black Sea region and now in southern Turkey with treks along the way to and fro. I’m always on the lookout for unique things I’ll use and not just novelty items (you can find plenty of those kinds of things here, just as in any touristy area). I like things that I’ll actually use on a daily basis, things that will make my home more beautiful and remind me of the memories I’ve made while visiting. I’m also just really attracted to the naturally-natural things available in Turkey. Much of it is not made to look or feel organic or natural- it just is that way already, and that’s what is so appealing to me.
Below is a list of 20 of my favorite finds throughout my trips to Turkey. Many of these items I’m actually using on a daily basis now, so I can tell you they’re worth it. They also make great gifts for friends and family you’ll share your experience with upon return, so make them special.
You’ll find that many of my suggestions here can be purchased at local grocery stores, so read it through, print this out and perhaps you can make a run to the local Migros store and get most of your souvenir and take-home shopping out of the way in almost one fell swoop. That’s what I did on my last trip and I’m so glad I did. I was able to enjoy the rest of my trip so much more that way. But hey, you do your trip your way.
* please note that some of the items listed will have to be declared ahead of time before entering back into the United States, so please read these guidelines and do that when traveling back into the country.
I hope you find the list enjoyable and if there is anything else you would suggest, please list those in the comments section at the end of this post.
- Kırmızı Biber Salçası (Red Pepper Paste)
In the states you could find red pepper paste in some Turkish or Mediterranean markets, but not always and it’s somewhat more expensive than what you’ll find it for in Turkey. Even the Korean red pepper paste in Asian markets (gochujang) can be a substitute, but to me the taste is very different and it’s also hot. Use it much like you would tomato paste for pasta dishes, meat dishes, breakfast eggs and the like. To me, it’s a unique ingredient I never started using until I came to Turkey so if you’re interested in making Turkish food when you get home, you’ll wish you brought this stuff. Please don’t buy the glass jars (trust me)- there are packs-of-three small boxes (Tat Pratik brand) of it that you can find in many grocery stores like Migros in Turkey. To cook with it, you can find several examples of dishes on my Instagram page and recipes using it on this website. - Findik Ezmesi (Hazelnut Butter) by Findux

Findux Findik Ezmesi
or Fiskobirlik (my personal preference). It’s more like a hazelnut paste or spread that is so tasty at breakfast with bread or as a health food before/after working out by just eating a few spoonfuls. It can be found at just about any grocery store, such as Migros or A101 stores (similar to Aldi stores in the U.S.).

- Fiskobirlik Yagi (Hazelnut Oil from Giresun). This is a unique oil that is hard to find in the U.S. and once you do find it, it’s quite expensive and I’ve never seen it from here specifically, anyway. They have small-medium containers of this oil in Turkey, mostly at grocery stores, so you can purchase and find a space in your suitcase to take this home easily. Use it in salads and cooked pastas, but do not heat it to a high temperature.

- Turkish Pistachios (Fistik) from Gaziantep. You’ll find all sorts of loose nuts and dried fruits in Turkey, but what you must taste are the fresh, raw or roasted pistachios from the pistachio capital of the world: Gaziantep. The meat of the nut is so green, it’s unmistakable I like to buy the vacuum-sealed packages of them found in many grocery stores because they make great gifts and keep well until you’re ready to open and store them at home after traveling.
- Baklava from Asi Künefeleri in the Eminönü neighborhood of Istanbul. You’ll find lots of options for sweets there, but look for this one that make the huge baklava “sandwiches” in their storefront window. Also try their green pistachio baklava and ask them to wrap it tight so you can take it home. Just be sure to eat these up quickly, as they are made fresh and do spoil within a week or two. I learned the hard way. The neighborhood is great for bargain shopping, by the way- especially for kids’ stuff.

- Turkish Hazelnuts (Findik) from Giresun (Black Sea region). Turkish hazelnuts from the Black Sea region are smaller than the ones we normally find in the U.S. I think they’re delicious and definitely worth a try and suggest you buy the unshelled nuts rather than shelled, since they retain their flavor much longer.

Top: Dried Turkish Hazelnuts; Bottom: Fresh Turkish Hazelnuts
- Small Turkish Garlic. If you love to cook, you’ll want to at least take these home and try them out. They’re so different than anything I’ve seen back in the US (even in California) and I feel like they’re a pretty unique find, especially since I happen to notice them in an 80-year old apothecary near the main entrance of the Spice Bazaar.

- Freshly Ground Hot Kahve from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not really a fan of Turkish coffee and I have my own reasons for that. I do, however, know plenty of people back home who would go crazy for this stuff, so it was a perfect gift to bring back home. If you go to this location in the Grand Bazaar, you’ll be able to get cute little bags of a few ounces of freshly ground kahve that make just the most perfect gifts. You can, of course, get larger portions, too, but I thought the small bags were just great alongside other trinkets I brought home for friends and family. Yes, you can find it all over the world, but the freshly ground stuff is really special.
- Bal (Turkish honey) from the Mugla Region. The Mugla region of southern Turkey is THE place for honeybees and honey production. It’s famous for pine honey, especially, but there are other varieties such as wildflower. You should be able to find this type of honey anywhere in Turkey.
- Pekmez (Grape Syrup/Molasses). Gear up for a boost of iron with this ingredient that is usually mixed with tahini (which you can easily find all over the U.S.) and eaten with bread. I call it the Turkish peanut butter and jelly“. It can be found nicely bottled in many grocery stores, or in large tubs all around Istanbul, especially around the Grand Bazaar. I feel like those are too heavy to lug back in a suitcase, so I always opt for the tall glass bottles found in the stores. Wrap them tight with your clothes and some bubble wrap or a thick paper bag, if you can. This cannot be brought on in your carry-on since it’s considered a liquid.

- Lokum (Turkish Delight) They say the best lokum comes from Afyon, but the ones I did try there were nothing in taste compared to the ones I found in the Grand Bazaar, so I’m not buying that notion on this one. Do some tastings around the bazaar, as there are hundreds of stalls to choose from, and then hundreds of flavors to try. I personally love the rose petal lokum as well as the tangerine, but there are so many yet to try. Serve them with Turkish çay or Turkish kahve when you get home and tell your friends and family all about your trip.
- Tirebolu Tea. Speaking of çay, much of the best tea in Turkey is grown in the Black Sea region of Tirebolu where I personally saw the beautiful tea fields myself. You can find the teas in specialty shops around Turkey. Look at grocery stores like Carrefour or Migros and shops that sell nuts and dried herbal teas or ask around to see where you can get it. I brought mine back directly from the source near Tirebolu, but you definitely don’t have to go that far to find it.

- Ihlamur (Linden Tea) and Other Dried Loose Herbal Teas. Speaking of teas, Turkey is also famously known for their herbal teas, which are mostly consumed during the cold and wet winter months. If you’ve been reading this website, you’ll remember that I’ve written about my love of ihlamur before and how to make it with the dried leaves (here). They’re super beneficial and way more potent than the bagged tea versions you find it boxes at the grocery stores, so be sure you grab the loose teas, which can be found all over the country. I found a good variety of teas in Istanbul near the shopping areas just outside of Eyup Sultan Çami.

- Copper Pots. If you love to cook or are buying a gift for your favorite chef, do not miss the opportunity to purchase Turkish copper cookware: sauce pans, braising pans, coffee pots of various sizes. Not only are they remarkably inexpensive compared to their US and European counterparts, they’re just as durable and good in quality. Here’s the trick, however, to know that what you’re buying is real copper: there will be a price for each item when you ask the shopkeeper, but if it is real copper, he will not be able to tell you a final price until the item is weighed. That is how you know it’s real. If it’s a fake, there will be a set and final price on the item, no weighing. I wouldn’t buy it, personally. There are many shops in Istanbul, particularly around the Egyptian Spice Market.

- Clay Serving Bowls & Cooking Pots– You’ll find in many restaurants when they serve something like Turkish rice pudding, they’ll put it in cute, round ceramic bowls (which I always want to take home) called Güveç Kabı. These are great for decorative serving, but you can also bake with them, which is why they’re also so practical in the kitchen. You can find them all over the pazars, but you’ll be surprised to find them sometimes at stores like Migros or A101 for unbelievable prices.
The same goes for the Güveç pots which come mostly unglazed and are great for clay pot cooking of meat and vegetables, after which a famous Turkish dish is name. I’ll be posting a recipe and how to season and use the pot soon. You can also find these in the same places as the small bowls for a really great price. I always put these in my carry-on because I’m too afraid they’ll break in a suitcase. 
- Handmade Wooden Spoons & Cutting Boards. I’ve bunched these together even though they’re two separate types of kitchen goods, but it’s because you’ll usually find them somewhere together at a shopkeeper’s stall at a local farmers market (pazar), which is the best and cheapest way to find them. I’ve seen them in Istanbul, the Black Sea region and in the south, so someone is making these everywhere you go. In the south, you’ll also find boards made out of olive wood instead of the typical pine. What I love about all of these is that although they don’t seem sealed with anything, I don’t find them warping in the heat of cooking or when I’m neglectfully keeping them in water too long, so that’s a big plus for me!
- Turkish Cookbooks. I was so happily surprised to find a second hand book bazaar Sahaflar Carsisi) in Istanbul, not far from the Grand Bazaar. It has been there since the Byzantine days and yet I had no idea it was there, but just happened to bump into it while meandering about. What was amazing about it was that it seemed like a courtyard full of small book stalls for university students as well as for those studying Islamic courses, so there are lots of Qur’an and other Islamic studies type of books in Turkish there, too. I happen to be looking for Ottoman cuisine cookbooks and asked one of the shopkeepers about it, and he brought out one of my favorite cookbooks to this day: Dervis Sofralari (The Dervish Table) by Sahrap Soysal. Another simple, but really good book is Ramazan Lezzetleri (Delicious Ramadan) by M.Omur Akkor. They may be in Turkish, but if you really love and want to cook some authentic cuisine, you’ll pour through these books and figure out what the recipes are saying- plus, there’s always Google translate to help.
- Gül Suyu (Rose Water) by Gülsah. For just about $1 USD you can find this product in many grocery stores like Migros and use it as a facial toner. You can also put this in a spray bottle and use it as a face/body hydrator, which is absolutely refreshing.

- Hammam Towels (also referred to as simply, “Turkish Towels”). I absolutely love the look of Turkish hammam towels and have bought many that I just adore. They come in pretty pastel colors usually, and vary in size from small hand towels to super large beach towel size. I’ve been all over Turkey and the best prices I’ve found for these were in the Galata Tower area of Istanbul where you’ll find a lot of shopping and touristy shops, but with competitive prices. Sometimes if you buy a lot, they’ll even throw in some cute soaps with your purchase.

- Olive Oil Soap. Speaking of soaps, there is nothing as pure and soft as olive oil soap. You can certainly find these in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean markets in the U.S., but they’re worth the buy for the price and quality in Turkey. I’ve found them cheapest at stores like A101 and Sok, but you can certainly find them in the pazars (markets) and specialty shops where things like hammam towels are sold. *P.S. I even wash my hair with it sometimes!
Whew…that was a lot. And this post took me down memory lane, as I remember where I was with every purchase. For me, it’s so much like a scavenger hunt to find new products that I love and are unique to me and that I actually use at home at the end of the day. I hope you’ll find the same usefulness and enjoyment of these things as I did (and still do)!